Attempted Baguettes

7 Sep

IMG_5316Oh, hi. I’ve been kind of absent in these parts this week – I’m back at work full-time (did I mention I had four months off over the summer? Yeah, tough life!) and being out of the house for almost 10 hours a day while still trying to indulge in my blogging habit is taking some getting used to (I know, I know, suck it up Korena!). I just haven’t found the time or energy to finish a post, even though I have a backlog of recipes waiting to be posted. Oh well. First world problems, right?

Anyway, onto the topic of this post: the baguette. A seemingly simple cylinder of dough, tapered at both ends, baked to a shatteringly crisp, crusty perfection. However, having the inquiring mind that I do, I researched the heck out of just how to create said seemingly simple cylinder, and in the process, psyched myself out a bit (kind of like I did with macarons, another French creation). It wasn’t until I came across Richard Bertinet’s shaping instructions that I felt comfortable enough to try it out, and thankfully, it was actually much easier than I imagined.

I made these with the white dough from Richard’s book, again using the slap-and-fold kneading technique (I made another video showing how the dough looks/behaves before and after kneading – see below!). The bread was nice, but my oven was having a terrible, horrible, no good, very bad day and did NOT want to hold a temperature above 375˚F, which is not conducive to that shatteringly crisp, crusty perfection I mentioned earlier. Instead, the crust ended up very pale on the bottom and kind of chewy overall, but I attribute this completely to equipment failure rather than to the recipe.

Brown on top, pale on the bottom. Silly oven, that’s not how it’s supposed to be!

That said, I think I do prefer the “no knead” recipes that employ a few folds to develop gluten and a longer rest time to develop flavour. I made another, much more successful attempt at baguettes using a modified version of my go-to everyday bread, and they turned out fantastically: the oven cooperated, the crust was shatteringly crisp, the slashes opened up nicely, and the taste was amazing. I’ll be making these again for sure, so stay tuned.

These ones came out perfectly though.

For this first attempt, I made a couple of the baguettes into epis, or stalks of wheat. This is a really easy technique – even easier than slashing a straight baguette – and looks pretty impressive. It’s perfect for serving at a dinner party (which is what I did) because the “kernels of wheat” can be broken off individually and no one has to worry about their dining companions wielding a bread knife in close quarters.

Oh yes, and remember I mentioned that I wanted to experiment with converting Richard’s recipe to sourdough? This was the result:

Looks pretty, but wasn’t very successful – another oven fail, combined with the fact that I got impatient (impatience and sourdough don’t mix, FYI) and didn’t give my starter enough chance to wake up from its hibernation in the fridge before baking with it, which meant that it didn’t rise very much at all, didn’t brown properly in the oven and instead got super hard and chewy, and tasted reeeeeeeeaaaaally sour. Unfortunately I gifted some of it to my neighbour before realizing this, but I’m hoping that the apricot oat bread that went along with it made up for it! ;) This was another fun shape though: fougasse, which is slashed to create holes in the bread to suggest the shape of a leaf or stalk of wheat (again!). Moral of the story? Sometimes following a recipe is the right thing to do…

White Baguettes

From Richard Bertinet’s Dough. Here is the video of Richard that comes with the book, showing how to mix and handle the dough. Makes 4 baguettes. 

In a large bowl, mix together:

18 oz white bread flour

1 1/2 tsp active dry yeast

Stir in:

2 tsp fine grain salt

12 1/2 oz water (not fluid oz)

Mix until the dough comes together – you might need to add a few tablespoons more water to get all the flour moistened and incorporated.

Turn the dough out onto an unfloured surface and begin the slap-and-fold kneading technique, kneading until the dough is smooth, sticky but not sticking to everything, and very elastic. This video shows what it looks like at the start vs. the final product after 10 minutes of kneading:

Form the dough into a ball and place it in a bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and let it rise at room temperature for about an hour, until doubled, or you can put it in the fridge for a long, slow, overnight rise (which is what I did).

Gently scrape the risen dough onto a well-floured surface, being careful not to deflate it. Cute the dough into 4 equal pieces and form each one into a ball by folding the edges in towards the middle and pinching to seal. Turn each ball over, seam side down, and let rest, covered, for 10 minutes.

To shape the baguettes, turn one ball of dough seam side up and gently flatten it into an oval shape with the heel of your hand (you don’t want to deflate it completely). Fold one long edge of the oval in to the middle and press to seal with the side of your thumb. Repeat with the remaining long edge of the oval, so that there is one seam running down the middle of the dough.

Now fold the dough in half along the seam you created and use your thumb or the heel of your hand against the counter top to seal the dough together, gently stretching the dough to elongate it as you go (this will minimize the amount of rolling you have to do to shape the baguettes). You can repeat the last fold one more time to make the baguette longer, if necessary. With both hands held flat, palms down, start in the middle and roll your hands towards the ends to elongate the baguette. Do this firmly but gently, exerting equal pressure with both hands. You want it about 16″ long, or long enough so that it will still fit on your baking stone (or baking sheet). Taper both ends of the baguette with the outside edge of your palms.

Place the baguettes seam side down on a well-floured cloth, making a pleat in the cloth between each baguette to prevent them from sticking together as they rise. Cover and rise for about an hour, until doubled.

Meanwhile, preheat your oven to 475˚F with a baking stone (if you have one) on a middle rack and a metal roasting pan placed on a lower rack.

Gently lift the proofed baguettes onto a piece of parchment paper (or a parchment-lined baking sheet). For regular baguettes, slash the top of the dough with a razor blade of sharp knife 4 or 5 times. The slashes should span the middle third of the baguette (lengthwise) and should only be slightly angled, with the start of each slash overlapping the end of the previous one. Susan at Wild Yeast illustrates this very well.

For epi baguettes, use scissors to make a steeply-angled cut, without cutting all the way through the bottom of the baguette. Fold the resulting segment of dough to one side. Repeat the cut, folding the next segment to the other side, until you have 4 or 5 “kernels” on your stalk of wheat.

For fougasse, skip the entire shaping process. Instead, once you’ve divided the risen dough into 4 pieces, flour each one, stretch it into a long triangle, and place on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet. With a dough scraper or any other straight edged-implement, make a cut down the middle of the triangle and gently pull the sides of the triangle to open it up. Because the dough is quite sticky, it’s best to make the cut in one single downward pressing motion rather than trying to saw or slice through the dough. Repeat 2 or 3 times with smaller cuts on both sides of the middle cut to make a leaf shape.

Using a pizza peel, transfer the bread and parchment paper to the baking stone in the preheated 475˚F oven. Pour about 1/2 a cup of hot tap water into the roasting pan for steam. Bake for 10 – 12 minutes, until well-browned and crusty. Let the bread cool completely (difficult, I know) before slicing.

This post submitted to YeastSpotting and Panissimo, created by Barbara and Sandra and hosted this month by Sandra.

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12 Responses to “Attempted Baguettes”

  1. Kate Schat September 7, 2013 at 10:02 am #

    I’m going to try the epis shape with my baguette recipe! I use Stecca, a Jim Lahey recipe that is so dang simple it aint even funny. I like to press sweet onion, tomato slice, garlic cloves or dried herbs on top before baking. Then when it’s done, pull it out, put fresh basil and mozzarella on, then broil. Now THAT blows peoples minds.

    • Korena in the Kitchen September 7, 2013 at 10:13 am #

      OMG that sounds good! I’ll have to see if I can find that Stecca recipe!

      • Korena in the Kitchen September 7, 2013 at 10:16 am #

        Oh OK, I know exactly the recipe you’re talking about – it does look SO YUMMY!

  2. matchamochimoo September 7, 2013 at 11:00 am #

    Thanks for the demonstration video, so I need to be more patient to the sticky dough next time. Your bread looks so amazing!

    • Korena in the Kitchen September 7, 2013 at 6:14 pm #

      Yes, patience is definitely key to high hydration dough… the more you work it, the more elastic and less sloppy it becomes :)

  3. Yvonne @ bitter baker September 7, 2013 at 11:35 am #

    I love the technique where you cut the baguettes, looks really impressive! And haha, I know what it’s like to try and do food blogging AND work full time, sometimes it’s just too much – you gotta have a life too, right?! Four months off during the summer sounds pretty nice though :)

  4. Kathryn and Ross September 7, 2013 at 4:04 pm #

    Bread is so fun to experiment with. That one batch looks great. Gotta get rid of that darn stove though, so frustrating. Cross off Pony and put Stove on your letter to Santa this year.

    • Korena in the Kitchen September 7, 2013 at 6:15 pm #

      Ha, I’ll make sure Santa gets the memo – I think “stove” is right after “hot rod” on his list… ;)

  5. Barbara Bamber | justasmidgen September 7, 2013 at 8:22 pm #

    I am so impressed, like I always am when I come here, at your ability to bake such complicated breads. Some day I’ll give this a try! I’m also working again, it’s tough to fit everything into a day isn’t it? xx

  6. Bread & Companatico September 8, 2013 at 12:31 am #

    don’t give the oven the blame only… I am a little suspicious about Bertinet methods :) you see how good the other dough you used previously came out? that was a levain, a much more trustworthy dough to work with. no special technique can replace a honest long fermentation with wild yeast. this is what I think and I appreciate that you show not only success but also failure (btw, the fougasse is beautiful!)

    • Korena in the Kitchen September 8, 2013 at 9:58 am #

      Heh ;) I wouldn’t say that Bertinet’s “special techniques” are replacing anything – it’s a totally different animal than long fermented artisan bread – his technique is simply just how to knead high hydration dough! (Which one could argue is totally unnecessary if you use a longer fermentation, but like I said, different animal!) This was definitely the oven’s fault, but at least the trial and error of these baguettes allowed me to figure out how to work with it to produce those much prettier ones :)

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